I spent an epic month in the Himalaya to celebrate my birthday. The adventure began with birthday celebrations in Kathmandu, Nepal, followed by a two-week trek to Everest Base Camp, a city break in Lhasa, Tibet and ending back in Nepal. As part of a blog series tagged “Notes from the Himalaya” — from the journal I kept, I share my extraordinary journey.
5 unique ways to spend your birthday in Kathmandu
1. Watch the sunrise over the Himalayas at Nagarkot
My day began with a 4 am pick up to watch the sunrise at Nagarkot. The village is known for its striking views of the Himalayas.
As we leave Kathmandu, the terrain changes with my driver navigating dirt roads, mostly in the dark; driving through the ancient city of Bhaktapur to reach our destination, 40 minutes away. After paying the NPR300 entrance fee at one of the checkpoints, we enter Nagarkot. He drops me off at the car park at the top of the hill, and I take the steps leading to the viewpoint, feeling the altitude with every step.
Looking at the viewing tower, I hesitate for a moment, is it safe. I start climbing and wait in anticipation for my first sighting of Everest — the clouds clear, and there she is, 142 kilometres away. I gasp, feeling a sense of awe at a dream come true. The excitement of my pending trek to Everest Base Camp finally hits me. A climatic start to my birthday in Kathmandu.
It’s worth climbing the viewing tower for the panoramic view of the Himalayan mountain range. On a clear day, you can see all the main peaks. Arrive early for a spot on the small platform.
Next stop the ancient city of Bhaktapur.
2. See the temples at Bhaktapur
Bhaktapur Durbar Square — once home to the old Bhaktapur Kingdom. The entrance fee to enter the UNESCO World Heritage Site is NPR1500.
The early morning haze added to the magic of the place. I wandered around the old palace courtyards, admiring the temples with their exquisite wood carvings, feeling a sense of a bygone era. Despite the earthquake that hit Nepal in 2015 damaging some of the structures, there is still a lot to experience; the whole area is an open museum.
The main religion in Nepal is Hinduism, with this visit giving me a deep insight into Hindu worship. I sat on the steps of Nyatapola Temple and watched the place come alive with colour, as worshippers began their day with prayers and offerings of flowers and coloured powder to the gods; while market traders laid out their exotic produce.
Street art and colourful shrines
L-R: Powder drenched shrines & exquisite wood carvings
The colourful surroundings around Nyatapola Temple
L-R: Ancient bell. Statue of King Bhupaindra Malla perched on the top of a stone monolith. Pashupatinath Temple
3. Have a sound healing treatment with Tibetan singing bowls
Back in Kathmandu, I say goodbye to my driver and tip him handsomely for being my unofficial tour guide.
I make my way to the yoga studio for a sound healing treatment to rebalance my energy. As I’m sitting in the waiting area, I strike up a conversation with an Australian woman. Taking in our zen-like surroundings, we sip green tea and talk about the meaning of life. One of the many reasons I love to travel — sharing stories with strangers. Somehow the world always seems smaller and more welcoming.
The treatment begins as the sound healer moves around me, rubbing the singing bowls with a mallet to create the sounds that vibrate my whole being. I can feel the energy move in my stomach as I drift off into a deep state of relaxation. A soul-stirring experience one I would happily repeat.
Enjoying a sound healing treatment at Mandala Yoga Studio, Thamel
It’s midday, arriving in Kathmandu last night and this morning’s early start begin to take their toll, as my eyelids feel heavy. I head over to the nearby Himalayan Java Cafe, and in the middle of drinking an espresso-on-the-rocks, I have a deja vu moment. My curious mind wonders if this an effect of the healing treatment.
Next on my list of things to experience is a food tour, but that starts at 2 pm, so I stay and have a leisurely lunch. I recommend the veggie burger.
Drinking an espresso-on-the-rocks at the Himalayan Jave cafe, Thamel
4. Take a secret food tour on Thamel’s back streets
To add to some cultural immersion to the day, try a local tour run by locals. There are many unique things to do in Kathmandu if you’re looking to make your birthday that extra special. I opted for a Secret Food Tour and chose the vegetarian option. The safe places to try street food — places only a local would know, nestled down the back alleys of Kathmandu’s tourist and shopping district.
I meet my guide, a university student studying tourism, in the car park of the Fire and Ice Pizzeria. We set off as she leads me through Thamel’s maze of streets, passing local temples, shops selling trekking equipment, souvenirs and everything in between.
Many of the streets are narrow, where transport and people vie for the right of way — in both directions. Watch your footing for deep potholes and mind your head for low hanging cables.
The narrow streets of Thamel
We slip down an alleyway and come to our first stop where I try some delicious bara — round lentil bread served with potatoes. Followed by the Newari dessert yomari — a rice flour dumpling stuffed with molasses.
Eating a yomari, while the bara is being cooked
Next stop is the momo stand. This popular dumpling appears on many a Nepalese menu.
The Momo.
My guide points this building out, which I mistook as being derelict, are homes — a sad reminder of the devastation caused by the 2015 earthquake. It’s not uncommon for people to live in structures such as these, with whole families living in “one-room houses”.
As we walk to our next food stop, I’m told Nepal is getting ready to celebrate two of its most important festivals. The Nepali festival — Dashain, a celebration of good over evil and the Hindu festival — Diwali, the festival of lights. It’s a tight squeeze walking the streets of Thamel which are bustling with locals shopping for the weekend festivities.
Here we try a samosa — a savoury cone-shaped pastry filled with vegetables, and jalebi — an Indian sweet, frying in the first pan. With Nepal bordering India, you’ll come across food influences from India.
Samosas and jalebi
At the last stop on the tour, my guide is enjoying the popular Indian street snack, pani puri — round hollow puri filled with vegetables.
As I walk back to my hotel, I reflect on my sensory experience — a day in the life of a local. From its people, its streets, its culture and traditions. These are the kind of immersive interactions I love; how better to understand and appreciate a country and its people.
5. Indulge in a Newari massage
Evening is about winding down and indulging in a Tranquility Signature Massage. The spa’s signature massage involves using traditional Newari massage techniques with a unique blend of oils. The therapist targets the areas that needed the most care, my back and feet — 90 minutes of bliss.
A perfect end to a perfect day
Back in my hotel room, there’s a knock on the door and I’m handed a birthday cake. Thank you, Hotel Shanker.
Completely exhausted, I fell into bed happy for having experienced such a unique birthday in Kathmandu, a wish come true. A day where all five senses took a hit. My mouth is watering just thinking about bara and pani puri!
Travel Beyond The Ordinary
Koser
