As part of a blog series tagged “Notes from the Himalaya” I share the extraordinary experiences from a month-long trip covering Nepal and Tibet. The adventure continues from celebrating my birthday to exploring Kathmandu further.
Excitement mixed with trepidation, wondering how this trip will unfold. I’m staying at the palatial Hotel Shanker housed in a 19th-century palace; which I checked in/out of no less than five times.
The sights of Kathmandu – a photo story
Kathmandu — dusty, chaotic and full of character; teaming with UNESCO world heritage sites and centuries-old temples. Art and culture which stems from a unique blend of Buddhism and Hinduism that has coexisted for years.
Day 1
Nagarkot and Bhaktapur
I spent my first day in Kathmandu celebrating my birthday, which began by watching the sunrise over the Himalayas at Nagarkot and visiting the temples at Bhaktapur, click on the link to read more about these places.
Day 2
Kathmandu Durbar Square
Let me start by introducing my taxi driver, Shree Krishna Shahi. We agreed on a price for sight hopping for the day, little did I know that we would get on so well. His sales talk “I know all the short ways” — shortcuts around Kathmandu’s busy streets. He made the impossible possible; we avoided the heavy traffic.
He chatted away, giving me a history lesson of Kathmandu. Slowing down on one of the city’s backstreets, he points to a small building. It’s the “one-room house” he owns and rents out. In a country where millions were made homeless after the 2015 earthquake, there are many one-room houses where families live in a tiny room. For him to own property made him a businessman, something he spoke about with pride.
Arriving early, we pull up to Kathmandu Durbar Square — a royal complex of structures and palaces of the old Shah dynasty.
Walking among the worshippers (and the pigeons) admiring the temples, I came across a Sadhu priest — a Hindu holy man. Sadhu priests are men and women who shun home comforts for a life of asceticism. His striking appearance and intense stare drew me in. They’re not camera-shy to western foreigners intrigued by their faces covered with ash and paint and their bright robes. Sat on the steps of a temple, he smiled as I took a photo.
There are many colourful statues of Hindu gods in the square. The figure in the red robe is of Hanuman, a Hindu deity with a monkey-like appearance. The stone sculpture below is of Kaal Bhairav, a manifestation of Shiva associated with annihilation.
This building with the gold window is the Kumari Ghar, the palace of the beloved Kumari, the town’s living goddess. The literal meaning of Kumari is virgin. A young girl is picked from the Newari community who leaves her parents home to live in the palace until she starts her menstruation cycle when the town will choose another Kumari.
If you arrive between 9 am – 11 am the Kumari sits by her window, although it is forbidden to take a photo of the goddess. I looked up; she wasn’t there.
Leaving the main square, I wandered down the narrow back streets — passing rickshaws for hire and locals selling produce from bicycle carts.
Swayambhunath Stupa (aka Monkey Temple)
Swayambhunath is one of the holiest Buddhist stupas in Nepal and the oldest of its kind, with a mass concentration of shrines and monasteries. Visiting this colourful complex was a highlight, with its iconic stupa, Hindu temples, statues of gold Buddhas and not forgetting the monkeys.
This Buddhist temple has two entrances. There’s a car park at the front if arriving by taxi, or you can climb the 365 steps to reach the shrine. Pace yourself, climbing the steps in the heat will leave you breathless. The vistas from the top overlooking Kathmandu and the valley are picture-perfect.
Each morning before dawn Buddhists and Hindu pilgrims come here to pray; walking up the steps to begin a series of circumambulating the stupa clockwise.
Despite the crowds, there’s a feeling of calm when you’re among these sacred sites. Perhaps it’s the many statues of the Buddha, whose image always invokes a sense of peace, or maybe it’s the colourful prayer flags flying in the wind.
The stupa is unique in its build, the eyes of the Buddha are the most arresting, looking in all four directions watching over Kathmandu valley. I was in awe of the four gold toranas — ornamental arched gateways, one on each side of the stupa with their striking design and detail.
L-R: A statute of the Buddha – a torana – the dome of the stupa – young monks turning the prayer wheels
The small stupas and pagodas in front of Swayambhunath
As I walk among the stupas and pagodas, passing worshippers, the air is heavy with the scent of incense; orange flowers and coloured powder pave the ground — all symbolic acts of daily worship in the Hindu tradition. The sound of chanting fills the air. I put my camera down and let my senses take over.
These monkeys were so affectionate with each other.
This mother and baby were playing camera tag with me. There’s no love like a mother’s love as another monkey approached them, the protective mother snarled a warning to stay away from her little one.
I’m now a big fan of Himalayan art, from traditional thangka paintings of Buddhas to the Himalayan mountain range and every landscape Nepal has to offer, put to canvas. From the quirky to the exquisite, especially the hammered metalcraft on tin plaques, such as these, the level of detail was astonishing.
An artist immersed in his craft
We leave Swayambhunath behind. Shree drops me back at the hotel and I book him for tomorrow. As I’m walking up to the hotel, I can hear music and see a man with a goat. I’m intrigued.
I had come back in time to witness a traditional Nepalese wedding on the hotel grounds. Captivated by the colour and sounds, I sit on the hotel steps and watch the happy occasion. The perfect ending to a day of cultural immersion.
Day 3
Pashupatinath Temple
After a tasty breakfast, I tried my first dosa — cooked rice pancake, looking like a crepe, filled with curried vegetables. An Indian staple that I didn’t come across for the rest of my time in Nepal. Shree picks me up at 8 am, and we drive to Pashupatinath Temple.
Pashupatinath Temple is a sacred site dedicated to Lord Shiva — a Hindu temple and open crematorium. Where the elderly followers of Hinduism come here to die. To be cremated on the banks of the Bagmati river, so their ashes can float down the waters that meet with the holiest of rivers for Hindus, the Ganges.
Top: Prayer rituals at the sacred site. Bottom: The main temple
Offerings to the Sadhu priests in return for blessings
As only Hindus can enter the complex, non-Hindus can walk along the river to view the complex from the riverbank. There is an atmosphere of death; to be celebrated not feared — from death rituals to funeral pyres, with people saying goodbye to their loved ones — a sobering experience for anyone. For me, a poignant moment as I remember my father.
Every picture tells a story
As we leave Pashupatinath behind and head to Kopan village, my thoughts drift to memories of Dad.
Kopan Monastery
Kopan Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery on the outskirts of Kathmandu in the village of Kopan. It’s not easy to reach, Shree got lost on the winding dirt track roads, it’s all uphill. We picked someone up along the way who directed us. I was feeling excited as this was my first visit to a monastery.
It’s worth visiting this monastery that sits high in the hills, offering stunning views over Kathmandu. Set in lush gardens with elaborate Buddhas and stupas depicting the history of Buddhism — a place of tranquillity, a welcome respite from the noise.
The monastery offers retreats and courses for international students in Dharma — the way of life as applied to the teachings of the Buddha. Popular with westerners looking to find the meaning of life or maybe give their life meaning.
Inside the meditation and study hall
A monks life
I watched these young monks go about their daily life filled with studies and chores. But they’re still kids and there is always time for candy and play.
A day in the life of a young monk
Friends sharing the candy given to them by a local girl
Why did I take a photo of a worm you wonder?
I’m walking down the steps of the monastery and see a worm. I have a flashback to a scene from the movie Seven Years in Tibet where the main character (played by Brad Pritt) asks the monks to dig up the earth because they’re going to build on it. The monks are upset as they think they’re killing the worms. In Buddhist thought, animals are regarded as sentient beings, and part of the doctrine of rebirth held is that any animal could be reborn as a human (I sidestepped the worm).
It was a surreal moment o be standing on this step, remembering that movie and knowing I’ll be heading to Tibet in a few weeks — this was no longer a dream but reality. It’s incredible how life plays out.
Buddhist wisdom and all things are sentient beings, including worms
The opulent gardens and elaborate stupas dedicated to yogis and Buddhas. With a history timeline of Lord Buddha, from his journey to enlightenment; to reaching the state of nirvana.
The main stupa is in memory of a great yogi. The statue in the fountain is of Chenrezig, the Buddha of compassion
L-R: Statuettes depicting the life of the Buddha – from attaining enlightenment to reaching the state of nirvana
Boudhanath Stupa
Next stop is a visit to the Great Boudha Stupa. This stupa is one of the largest and most significant Buddhist monuments in the world. For a zen-like experience, join Buddhist and Hindus pilgrims by walking around the stupa and say a prayer as you turn the prayer wheels clockwise.
Boudhanath Stupa – The all-seeing eyes that greet you. Ring the bells and throw coloured powder on the shrine
The stupa’s white dome represents the world; the eyes symbolise wisdom and method, and its curly nose, looking like a question mark, representing the unity of all things. The 13 pinnacles above the eyes represent the 13 states to reach complete enlightenment.
Boudhanath – a beacon of Tibetan Buddhism. The women in the top photo are in tradtiional Tibetan dress
Temples and monasteries surround the stupa. The temple on the left is Ajima Temple, the goddess who protects the stupa area. Guru Lhakhang Monastery seen below with its stunning architecture is one of the oldest monasteries in the area.
My time in Nepal gave me a fascinating insight into Buddhism and Hinduism. An enlightening experience, without a doubt. I came to the happy conclusion that I’m already following my path of enlightenment.
Garden of Dreams
Shree drops me off at the Garden of Dreams. I smile as I say goodbye to his short-ways. The two days I spent in his company made sight hopping more fun. Travel is as much about the people you meet as the places you see.
Sitting in the garden, I reflected on the day as I flicked through my photos. A day full of history, culture and two religions. My mind was still trying to take it all in.
As I’m walking back to the hotel, the roads are unusually traffic-free. Further along, there’s a police and military motorcade; the streets cleared to make way for the Prime Minister who is on his way to prayer. Nepal is celebrating two festivals this weekend — Dashain and Diwali.
Day 4
Patan Durbar Square
I have another flashback, this time to my school days.
I was 11 when I won an atlas in a school competition; as my imagination travelled its way through the book to exotic-sounding destinations — the seeds of wanderlust were planted. And here I was day four in one of those exotic-sounding places.
Still in school — history was a favourite subject, and travelling is the best history lesson; to go and explore faraway lands and see the past unfold through your eyes, which is what it felt like standing in Patan Durbar Square.
Patan Durbar Square — an open museum, vibrant with living art and culture at every turn. This concentrated mass of historical buildings and temples, spanning from the 6th century to the 1700s, is a visual feast of Newari architecture.
It’s mind-blowing to think they have stood the test of time (including earthquakes). These extravagant temples, once home to kings, still have their air of splendour and grandeur. A place of gods and kings.
Temples, gods, kings and statues
L-R: Vishwanath Mandir Temple guarded by two stone elephants. Krishna Mandir Temple
Stone lions guarding the Royal Palace
L-R: This grand temple is named after the god of rain, Rato Machhindranath – both Hindus and Buddhists worship the deity who is said to have ended a 12-year drought in the valley. Harishankar Temple.
L-R: The big bell on a pedestal is dedicated to Taleju, the royal goddess to the Malla kings. Krishna Mandir a 3-tier Hindu temple with intricate carving, looking like a wedding cake.
The beautiful detail on the temples is simply stunning
L-R: Keshav Narayan Chowk – the oldest chowk (courtyard) of the palace complex. This stunning white temple stands inside the pretty courtyard.
The Patan Museum holds displays of traditional sacred arts and architecture of Nepal such as the centuries-old bronze figurine here. The exhibits showcase Nepal’s cultural history and explain the meaning and context of its living traditions of Hinduism and Buddhism.
It’s all in the details. The Taleju bell – the most pretty window chain – a bronze figurine
The colourful surrounding streets with stalls selling bangles, tapestries and clothing.
Daily life
The taxi is waiting; I would’ve loved to spend more time here, especially in the museum. Back at the hotel, I collapse on a sun lounger with a long island iced tea and fall asleep in the shade.
In the next post of this series, I write about going beyond your limits and accomplishing the unexpected; I bag my first mountain summit all while completing the iconic Everest Base Camp trek.
Travel Beyond The Ordinary
